Cagliari

Cagliari’s districts each have their own feel, and you’ll find everything from budget apartments to upmarket hotels in each one. The Marina puts you at the heart of the action, Villanova is refined and elegant, and Stampace is the oldest district, offering a quiet and romantic atmosphere – but plump for Poetto if you want to be by the beach.

Hotel Miramare is a boutique four-star hotel that is like walking into a magazine spread – chilled out contemporary cool meets full-on belle-epoque glamour, with art deco styling and eccentric furniture. Each room has its own theme, and most of the art is for sale if you want to take a piece of your holiday home with you.

Street art is a serious business here, and Via San Saturnino in the Villanova district has the biggest concentration – well worth checking out, with everything from Greek myths and declarations of love to grand satirical graffiti. The markets of Piazza del Carmine and Piazza Trento pull in the crowds for everything from antiques and vintage clothing to casu marzu, the island’s famous cheese.

For those seeking to learn more of Sardinia’s history, Cagliari’s Museo Archeologico Nazionale houses incredible Roman and Phoenician artefacts, and just beyond this sits a ruined Roman amphitheatre. On the Piazza Palazzo, you’ll find the graceful 13th-century cathedral – go underground for fascinating chambers carved out of rock, or right to the hilltop spot, for fantastic piazza views.

While Sardinia likes to own its culinary traditions, you’ll find most of the Italian staples you want to eat on holiday here – fresh bread, olive oil, ricotta-stuffed ravioli, rich tomato sauces, and plenty of cheeses and salamis. The island itself is famous for its pecorino cheese, which usually sits in the middle of all Sardinian dining tables.

You’ll find mountains of cheese at San Benedetto Market (including pecorino the size of wagon wheels), along with a rainbow of fruit and vegetables and long counters of fresh food to pick up for a picnic. For restaurants, head to the marina – the majority of eateries are rolled out on two streets, and there are lots of upscale options to choose from, along with bars serving traditional white vernaccia and fruity red cannonau.