Tangier

In recent years, more and more of the city’s central riads are being bought up and transformed into accommodation for tourists, and you’ll find lots of traditional and affordable places to stay that are prettily tiled, texture-filled, and give you that authentic Tangier feel.

If you’re plumping for luxury, the Fairmont Tazi Palace has been restored to its original 1920s splendour, when it was built as the opulent residence of the king’s advisor. Set in a eucalyptus forest on a hill high above the media its grounds are filled with palm trees, olive groves, and citrus and fig trees, making you feel like you’re staying in a secret oasis. It has multiple restaurants, a spa sanctuary, and spectacular views of the city from the suites’ balconies.

The medina, Tangier’s Old Town, is a world of its own. There’s a distinctly Spanish feel to it, and you can spend hours getting pleasantly lost in the labyrinth of white buildings, intense blue doors, colourful staircases and vibrant bougainvillea. In the medina’s souks you’ll find all sorts of treasures, such as fragrant spices, babouche slippers, olives, tangerines (Tangier’s signature fruit), mint tea, and fresh khobz bread.

On Grand Socco’s southern flank, you’ll find Cinema Rif, one of Tangier’s brightest cultural attractions. Set behind the façade of the original art deco cinema, this arthouse cinema and film archive shows both indie and mainstream films (mainly American, Moroccan, Spanish or French – and films are dubbed), with a uber-cool café decorated with vintage film posters.

Tangier is the closest African city to Europe, and while you’ll not be short of international restaurants and global cuisine, the city is bursting with traditional Moroccan fare. You’ll find lots of humble rustic cafés serving hearty tagines, cooked with chicken or lamb, and almonds, garlic, cumin, paprika and Moroccan olive oil.

In the heart of the medina sits the Gran Central Café. This iconic place dates all the way back to 1813, and is the perfect place to drink its famous Moroccan mint teas and feel the pulse of the city. Gran Café de Paris forms an important part of Tangier’s bohemian history – the likes of Tennessee Williams wrote here, and it was the meeting place of WWII spies – and today it still attracts an eclectic crowd for daytime coffees and evening drinks.

The Grand Socco is the entrance to the medina, a palm-ringed plaza with a big central fountain. For the best views, climb the steps across from the police station, to where locals call La Terrasee – locals spend the day in the café at the top playing parchis (a popular Spanish board game), and the otherworldly atmosphere make it hard not to feel like you’re on a movie set.

While tourists are typically attracted to Tangier for its city life, the Dalia Beach is also easy to reach. Fine white sands and emerald seas make it popular for both sun-worshipping and water sports, and the coastline is packed with cafés, restaurants and bars. For a romantic evening stroll, head west to the lighthouse of Cap Spartel, which is surrounded by a leafy nature reserve, and watch the sunset over the mingling waters of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.