Thessalonika

Hotels are largely pitched at business and convention trade, priced accordingly and line noisy streets. Exceptional design-led renovations which offer more value and calm include the contemporary Davitel Tobacco (Agíou Dimitríou 25), a converted tobacco warehouse, and Le Palace (Tsimiskí 12), featuring natural fibre. For more comfort (and outlay), choose Domotel Les Lazaristes (Kolokotróni 16) in remoter Stavroúpoli district with free parking (a major plus), or the art deco gem Bristol Hotel (Oplopiou 2), handy for Ladádika clubs and restaurants. One of the few salubrious budget options is Orestias Kastorias (Agnóstou Stratiótou 14), with somewhat eccentric if en-suite rooms.

Thessalonika still has ample retail therapy options, especially along main downtown street Tsimiskí, though nearby Ermoú and Mitropóleos have cheaper outlets. Mega-malls include central City Gate, and Makedonia out near the airport. Clothing outlets are especially compelling; Intervista (Tsimiskí 71) and Diamantis (men only, Tsimiskí 43) between them stock every conceivable designer label. For Greek sounds, check out Studio 52 (Dimitríou Goúnari 46), one of the oldest and best stocked record/CD shops in Greece. No self-respecting Greek will return from Thessalonika without baked goodies from Terkenlis (12 branches, including Tsimiskí 30).

Thessalonika is famous for its many mezedopolía (mezze-style bars), especially in and around Platía Áthonos in the bazaar, near Platía Navarínou, or the old covered Modiáno Market. Atmospheric Meteora Vima tis Garidas (Modiáno stalls 58–60, Vasiléos Iraklíou 31) is ace for loútsos (baby barracuda) or sardines, good starters and decent wine. Unusual or downright spicy recipes were brought by refugees from Asia Minor; sample those at Apo Dhyo Horia (Platía Navarínou, Výronos 7), a tiny spot showcasing Cretan and Pondian (Black Sea) platters. Nearby, the bohemian set repairs to Loxias (Isávron 5), with windows overlooking the Navarínou ruins and a nice line in lamb sausages, mountainous salads and desserts. Hiding behind an old church, Ta Koumbarakia (Egnatia 140) is a reliable, long-running venue for cheap seafood, veggie platters and measures of tsípouro.

Thessalonika Documentary Festival

March

While not quite as venerable as the Thessalonika Film Festival, this 1999-established festival has plenty of lectures and peripheral events along with screenings.

Thessalonika Book Fair

May

From a strictly Balkan bash, this has grown to attract publishers and bibliophiles from every European country; in 2013, the UK was guest country of honour, with appearances by authors like Victoria Hislop.

Thessalonika International Trade Fair

September

This is an important commercial fair but you might want to avoid visiting the city at this time unless you are travelling no business – hotels get fully booked and the city is packed.

Thessalonika Film Festival

November

Since 1959, this 10-day festival has become a must for filmmakers, reviewers and audiences, with a truly global scope.

Mylos Club Events

Year round

Mylos Club, the first, boldest conversion of disused Greek industrial premises into cutting-edge venues, remains a linchpin of events in town. Expect top Greek musical performers, exhibits and ‘happenings’.