Keflavík

There are lots of smart city hotels in the southwest of the country around Keflavík and Reykjavik, as well as unique family-run guest houses and quirky wooden lodges and cabins if you want to veer slightly off the beaten track.

The Blue Lagoon has two excellent hotels, right in the heart of the steamy landscape. The Silica Hotel is contemporary and comfortable, with its own private lagoon for guests. And The Retreat Hotel is an award-winning luxury resort – in addition to a private lagoon it has a Michelin-starred restaurant and a subterranean spa that promises to take you on a transformative journey into the volcanic earth…

Just 20 minutes’ drive from Keflavík Airport, the Blue Lagoon is one of the country’s top attractions – you’ve probably seen the pictures of this powder-blue geothermal pool, where you can bathe in the mineral-rich water and slather soft white silica mud on your face.

East of Reykjavik you’ll find the Golden Circle, a roughly 185-mile-long loop that’s famous for its unforgettable sights. Highlights include Gullfoss, a spectacular waterfall and frothing canyon; Pingvellier, where tectonic plates meet; and the bubbling landscape of Geysir, where the water erupts more than 100 times per day.

Of course, no trip to Iceland would be complete without a northern lights tour – Iceland’s latitude and lack of light pollution make it one of the best places in the world to witness this phenomenon.

While many of Iceland’s famous foods are an acquired taste (you may have heard of its notorious dish – fermented shark!), there are lots of delicious delicacies to try, as well as a new wave of chefs pushing the foodie boundaries in the new ‘Nordic Movement’. Lobster and lamb feature a lot of upmarket menus, and you’ll of course see an abundance of seafood.

The theme may be more appealing than the old-school food, but Porrablot is a raucous Viking-themed midwinter feast that is celebrated nationwide in January–February. And Beer Day is heartily celebrated on 1 March, to mark the day in 1989 when the prohibition was overturned – and bars, pubs, restaurants and clubs get heavily involved in the party every year.

Keflavík isn’t too far from the country’s capital, Reykjavik, which has everything you’d want from a European capital city – excellent museums, art galleries, shops, coffee houses, and a wild and legendary nightlife scene.

On the south coast of the island you’ll find Skogafoss waterfall, which is regarded as Iceland’s most striking. Double rainbows appear behind it on sunny days, and Viking legend says a magic treasure chest was once hidden behind the wall of water.

To really feel the freeze, visit the glaciers of Vatnajokull National Park – the weather is so harsh that regular guided tours only run June–August, but specialist tours to explore the famous sapphire-blue ice caves run at various other times, too.