Las Palmas

With its lush, green crags and pristine coastline, Las Palmas might not have the mega resorts of its neighbours but that doesn’t mean you’ll have to rough it. If you’re happy to be in town, the Hotel Hacienda de Abajo (Miguel de Unamuno 11) is gorgeously eclectic. If being beachside is non-negotiable, try the Hotel-Apartamento Las Olas (Playa de los Cancajos) – close to the main airport, it’s also a seven-minute walk from Cancajos?Beach. If the thought of self-catering leaves you cold, book a room at the pretty four-star Sol La Palma (Urbanización Puerto Naos) instead.

Although the locals often head to Tenerife to shop, the island isn’t a total write-off – even if shopping malls are completely nonexistent. One of the best places to try is the Mercadillo del Agricultor de Puntagorda (Camino del Pinar 55), an eclectic farmer’s market that has fresh goat’s cheese piled up alongside handmade lace and chunky terracotta pots. Also worth a visit is the small town of Mazo, which is where you’ll find the best puros palmeros (cigars). Quite literally fit for a queen, consignments of puros palmeros are regularly sent to Madrid for the Spanish royal family.

If the thought of fat black olives, cured chunks of salty Serrano ham and freshly caught fish tickles your taste buds, La Palma won’t disappoint. Big, hearty dishes are the name of the game on the island, and one of the best places to get stuck in is Bodegón El Sanavadit (Miranda 80). For lighter fare, try one of the many local fish eateries. La Gaviota, in the fishing village of Barlovento, does wonderful seafood sourced straight from the boats. For great tapas, try El Pulpo (Playa de Los Cancajos), a cheap and cheerful beachside spot in Santa Cruz de la Palma.

Los Indianos

January

Symbolising the return of newly wealthy emigrants from the former Spanish colonies of Venezuela and Cuba, Los Indianos is easily one of the best parties in La Palma. Festivities involve throwing buckets of talcum powder over everyone in sight and plenty of wine.

Fiesta del Almendro en Flor

January-February

Loved by locals and tourists alike, the Festival of the Almond Blossom in Puntagorda is a celebration of all things almond with free-flowing nuts and wine – perfect for shaking off the January blues.

Fiesta de San Antonio

June

Although it has roots in religion, there’s little churchly dignity about Garafía’s annual bash. Part concert, part livestock show, expect thumping live music courtesy of local favourites and a race featuring weighted sleds pulled by oxen.

La Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves

August

Few festivals include dancing dwarves but La Bajada isn’t any old festival. Held every five years, the fiesta involves bringing a gargantuan statue of the Virgin of the Snows from Nieves to the capital over 18 days. It’s an impressive sight, although the polka dancing midgets are the crowd favourite.

El Diablo

September

Lucifer has an annual date with the tiny town of Tijarafe, if only in the shape of a vast papier mâché effigy. After much music, dancing and drinking, he appears in the main square to mock screams before being vanquished by the crowds with the help of some fireworks. Although his head is usually burnt, El Diablo returns every September for an encore.